Music at the Caravan
Saturday, March 25
The Story of Ballyferris. Chapter Ten. Music and Derek's Caravan.
Monday, March 20
The Story of Ballyferris. Chapter Nine The Second Field
Brian Cathcart and friend, Sandy and me with an unknown boy in the second field.
I've already mentioned the Pollock abode. It wasn’t a caravan as such but an amazing reuse of a workman's trailer. The outside was painted forest green and the four wheels were black. Three or four wooden steps led up to the front door and like many of the caravans it was a barn door with the top left open to let in light and air, while keeping the bottom closed giving the family some privacy .
Inside the wooden hut was divided into two areas. To the left the sleeping quarters once again split into two small thin rooms. Each of these rooms had bunk beds fitted on to the wooden walls rather like the alcove beds of Irish cottages, or those I’ve seen in magazines in Breton homes.On the right of the door was a kitchen area and opposite it some comfortable chairs. At the far end the dining table was raised on a plinth which meant you had to go up a step to get to it. Oh how exotic !
I have a vivid memory of being there... when I was perhaps fifteen... watching Mrs. Pollock frying a mound of onions in a large cast iron pan. The smell was wonderful as she stirred them around until they turned golden brown and glossy. But I think that apart from some potatoes, that was their dinner. Now I had never had a meal like that. There was always bacon or lamb chop or even chicken with potatoes and in a very odd way that I could never share with mum I longed for something as exotic as fried onions! Silly child!
Mr. Pollock had very strong views about table manners, which although we were not allowed to be rude at home seemed to me to take a lot of joy out of eating. Hands placed together on the edge of the table...no talking and sitting up staight...my family would have found that very hard to obey...we liked discussion around the table...especially big brother Ian. Outside the van and up against the perimeter hedge was an elaborate sun trap. Until I meet Vicky I had no idea that it was very desirable to get a good overall tan in the summer. This contraption was basically a large piece of wood placed at an angle of forty five degrees facing due south and at the bottom a strip of wood nailed so that your feet could have a resting place to stop them sliding off the end. They also had a white painted board to reflect the sun's rays in order for them not to miss a single one. The Pollocks were also the first people I knew to hold their arms above their heads sometimes... as they sunbathed... to make sure that the tan was really even! Needless to say, by late summer each year, Mr. And Mrs. Pollock were as brown as berries and as the years went on I would even go so far as to say rather leathery!
Now there may have been other occupants in that field but these are the ones who influenced me for better or worse and I have more to write about the main characters in future chapters. Then some friends may tell me that in those days I was the influence there and I like to think that I may have had a little of that at times... in this idyll called Ballyferris.
Thursday, March 16
The Story of Ballyferris...Chapter Eight...The Beach.
The Beach
Who is that child I see wandering, wandering
down by the side of the quivering stream?
Why does she seem not to hear, though I call to her?
Where does she come from, and what is her name?
Why do I see her at sunrise and sunset
taking, in old-fashioned clothes, the same track?
Why, when she walks, does she cast not a shadow
though the sun rises and falls at her back?
Why does the dust lie so thick on the hedgerow
by the great field where a horse pulls the plough?
Why do I see only meadows, where houses
stand in a line by the waterside now?
Why does she move like a wraith by the water,
soft as the thistledown on the breeze blown?
When I draw near her so that I may hear her,
why does she say that her name is my own?
Charles Causley, from The Collected Poems for Children
The Story of Ballyferris. Chapter 7.The Farmer and the Farm.
The Farmer and the Farm
Mr. William Hope owned the caravan field and the surrounding farmland. In fact we were eventually to find out that he also owned much of Millisle and large swathes of Donaghadee too! Of which town much more later. But without meaning to be disrespectful, even at the tender age of eight or nine, this would have seemed to be a fairly tall story to me. "Wully" Hope was the complete essence of the Ulster country man. Rough farm clothes, strong and almost unfathomable County Down accent, and add to that a ripe vocabulary, introducing me to expressions that I had never heard of in my safe narrow life. What an education for a good city child! But a man of property? Ah no, I didn't think so...then. How often are the definites of our lives and beliefs turned upside down for better or worse.
Anyway the farm was run by Wully and his two sons, young Will the older son and Neil the younger. the farmhouse itself was kept in order by a housekeeper, Miss Gilchrist, who also ran the dairy. Mr Hope was a widower. To be allowed to enter the house required a lot of feet wiping on the sacking provided at the back door, watched over the whole time by a scowling Miss Gilchrist. Now, I understand her feelings with mud walked in from the hidden garden beyond the house here and clay dust creeping in under even closed doors from Alan's ceramic studio next door.
Very early in this history mum and Miss Gilchrist became friends and so we were allowed the amazing treat of sitting on the living room floor in the farm on rainy days to watch television. But for me the best thing about the farm, was going to the dairy room to collect milk, cream, butter and eggs from Miss Gilchrist. this aways entailed being extra polite as there was the possibility she was busy preparing family food, cleaning or some other part of her busy life. I didn't wish to receive a sharp slice of her tongue. The whitewashed walls, the scrubbed slabs, the gleaming buckets full of steaming fresh milk....what joy. Spotlessly clean cloths covered the jugs and buckets and she would uncover one, plunge in a ladle and fill our container for the caravan.
The back of the farm was reached by turning right off the lane...then the farmyard.To the left a large open barn used for storing hay and straw. Woe betide you if you were caught on the top of the bales at harvest. Either the farmer or young Will would "gulder" at you...(shout)... with many expletives .... . "get the f... off the f...ing bales before I f...ing come and drag you off the f...ing things mesel".
Clear enough!
However if Neil, the younger son was home from boarding school - Campbell College- it was often a different matter. Any young farmer's son knows that the best place to do a bit of courting is in the hayloft, and with the daughters of the caravanners around the choice was increased.
Campbell...there's a thing I could never understand, Ian and the Hendersons...Douglas, Jackie and Robin...all attended the Methodist College Belfast, and Rosie and I both followed in our time. Campbell was Methody's sworn enemy..rugby you know...and not only was it a boys school but apparently more cultured...oh yes and snobby!Yet there was Neil, his untranslatable country accent with a plethera of expletives, encouraging girls up into the hay with many expressions that were new to me... why even the men where aunt Helen worked in Belfast may have wondered at them!
The Farmyard was a dangerous place to cross at times. Mr Hope kept geese. Geese could peck a chunk out of your leg if they took a mind to and no amount of reassurance could persuade me to put them to the test.So when it was my turn to fetch water from the farm pump I always hoped and prayed that the geese had wandered off somewhere. There were also two sheepdogs. Prince the old one and Rex the puppy. I was and still am a dog lover but I realised that they were working dogs and had to be respected and avoided. So to get to the pump was often quite an adventure. Dad had invented a trolley which could hold a large milk can, the type you used to see waiting on stone steps outside a farmhouse waiting to be collected by the milk companies.This we trundled up the grassy field along the lane and into the farmyard. The pump was on the far side of the yard and to get any water out you first had to prime it with a little more water if you wanted an easy flow from the spout. Then it was just a matter of pumping with the handle as hard as you could until the water came gurgling out and filled the can. Of course then you had to get the heavy can hauled on to the trolley and safely back to the caravan with most of the water still inside.
A cottage was attached to the side of the farmhouse. Every year it was rented out to a well known Belfast family. I thought of them as extremely exotic with their red curly hair and the rumour that not only did they have a pub but they were catholic. I regularly walked past the back door of the cottage hoping against hope that I might see the children or even be invited inside to play. It never happened. Perhaps I was too exotic for them as well.
Close by the cottage was a byre where the cows were milked. If Will Hope was feeling friendly and if you waited outside the entrace without being annoying there was always the possibility that he would invite you in to watch him milk. I think I was allowed to have a go at milking once, but then that may be another of my imaginings which has grown into a happening. Possibly my family will say so though I shall go on remembering it as a fact! I do know that if Will or Neil were milking in the byre you were more than likely going to get milk squirted at you. There were no modern machines used, everything done by hand and the milk swooshed into the galvanised tin buckets previously sanitised by miss Gilchrist with boiling water.Then the foaming bucket full of milk was carefully carried back to the dairy room and left to settle before the cream was skimmed from the top.
On past the byre through a gateway and you were in the pig yard. I remember this as a smelly place with a pig house by a far wall. So far...so good. However from easter on the pig or pigs lived in a walled garden at the front of the farmhouse on the corner of the lane. Then the pig house was swilled out and dried, whitewashed inside and out and pronounced fit for a poor family to use as a holiday home. What!..I hear you say. This was the 1950s and not so long after the second world war, only just after the end of rationing. Money was tight and to have a holiday at all was a luxury. Of course as usual I thought it amazing. To make a space out of such a place seemed to me very creative. I'm sure that all of these unusual environments at Ballyferris have gone towards my joy in later life when taking properties others have rejected and turning them into something useful and beautiful.
By the way the sow was called Susie, whether the original pig or not, and family history says that it was Rosies first word as she ran away from the caravan towards the walled garden.
Dogs, pigs, geese, ducks, hens, cockerels, and farmers sons made for an adventure to be remembered for ever as you walked through the old farmyard.
Wednesday, March 15
The story of Ballyferris. Chapter Six. Dad's Garage.
Dad's Garage
to give the family a place to holiday and one with salty fresh air ...and freedom.
Monday, March 13
Chapter Five ...The Caravans at Ballyferris.
The potter's mum and dad had a wonderfully sophisticated static caravan near Lancaster for many years....bedrooms...bathroom...kitchen et al.
The Caravans
They were a motley bunch of holiday homes. Not at all like a modern camping site. There were commercial vans with internal toilets and separate bedrooms that is true.
But as well as these were the wonderfully inventive alternative constructions, and in those days...these seemed to me...the most exciting....still do!Two in particular really captured my imagination. The first, based in the left hand corner on the seaward side of the field, was a double decker bus. Downstairs, the living room with the kitchen area, upstairs the bedrooms. What fun it must have been for this family to climb the stairs at night and look out on the other vans from their lofty height.The second, not actually a caravan, but a nissen hut left near the entrance to the field and used for coastal defences during the second world war.These were littered everywhere around that area.... after all the war had only ended about eight years before the period about which I am writing. We got to know Barbara and the family who stayed there very well, and even went to see them up in Belfast, in their home.When I look at some of the magazine articles nowadays, and how they emote rather romantically over recycling, and then think how inventive these people were, well, it makes me smile. They had divided up the inside space, by using old hospital screens. I remember these as ornate and heavy, the type that any interior designer would give their eye teeth for today. There was a living area in the middle with sleeping areas on the edge, and a kitchen at the far end.The couple who inhabited this extravaganza shared it with their daughter, and we became beach companions roaming far and wide.....often to the point of forgetting to return to our families at mealtimes.Much to the distress of my poor mother, with a toddler daughter, unable to go out searching for me.
Saturday, March 11
The Field ...Ballyferris
Chapter Four
In the early years our caravan was positioned along the back edge of the field. Behind us was the potato field and beyond that the coast road, leading left to Ballywalter and right toward Millisle. In front, a field of long grass and wild flowers, beyond that the beach and after a rocky foreshore the grey Irish Sea. The field was reached down a narrow lane which led to the beach, and on the right it was bordered by another caravan field . It was the first time that I had ever seen the kind of wild flowers that I had loved in the Flower Fairy books. Heartsease, wild thyme, marguerites, buttercups and lots more to thrill the soul of a dreaming child. Skylarks sang overhead as they soared higher and higher into the air luring us away from their nests hidden in the long grass .The air was sweet and spicey and when the wind dried on your lips they tasted salty and full of the sea. In later years pride of place right in the middle of all this was a flagpole and flying proudly from the top, the British Union Jack. Dad said that the farmer who owned the field, called it the “Flag of Prosperity” -pronounced “persparety” but this may only be a family fable. Caravans of various sizes and shapes were sited all around the perimeter of the field and thus began for me a life totally separate from the routine of home , school , home, in Belfast.
National Trust: Ards Peninsula.
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■sandhoppers, a little shrimp-like crustacean
■seaweed flies, insects which are food for turnstones, starlings and badgers
■sea aster (Aster tripolium) flowering from July to October
■scurvy grass
■thrift (Armeria maritima) flowering from June to August
■sea lavender (Limonium spp) flowering from July to December
■wild thyme (Thymus drucei)
■stonecrops and squills flowering in the summer
■bell heather (Erica cinerea) flowering from June to September
■bee orchids (Ophrys apifera) flowering from April to May
■pyramidal orchids (Anacamptis pyramidalis) flowering from June to August
■twayblade orchids (Listera ovata) flowering from May to July
Of course I didn't know the names of any of these wonderful bits of nature, I just reveled in their beauty and in my new found freedom.












